![]() If you don’t need interchangeable backs – but want the ability to use different lenses – take a look at the Mamiya C220/C330 series that Doug reviewed on here previously. But I know many people dream of owning one. Please note that I’m not saying the Hasselblad is “better”. I think the S2A will plateau while the 500c/cm bodies will continue to go up – meaning if you decide to sell the S2A to get the Hasselblad you will effectively “lose” money on the deal in the future versus just buying the Hasselblad at the start. S2A’s are going up in price but so are the 500c/cm series. I’d say “yes” with a caveat – only if you need the interchangeable backs and the functionality of a system that has different lenses, viewfinders, etc.Įven then - if you are really wanting a Hasselblad, and feel like you would want to use this system then eventually “trade up” – you might be better off buying the Hasselblad to begin with. OK, so the question at hand is – would I recommend an S2A to someone looking to get into the 6圆 Medium Format game? The 75mm lens is super sharp – when you nail focus the image holds up against more expensive glass like the Zeiss lenses of its day. This is a fairly easy fix if you get one – do a quick search on YouTube for several tutorials on this. And speaking of viewfinders – S2’s and S2A’s can often suffer from deteriorated spacing foam underneath the finder glass that causes the glass to sit in the incorrect plane and affect sharpness of the final image. Is it really bad? In bright to medium light you won’t notice it – but in darker situations like blue hour or night, composing and focusing can be a bit of a challenge. Dimmer than I would like – not nearly as bright as the Kowa Six or the Yashicamat that I’ve already reviewed. The next thing to note is that the viewfinder is fairly dim. It’s stumpier and fatter than a 500 series, but the design, format, and chrome bits are really close to the look of a Hasselblad 500c/cm. ![]() The gear design was changed and beefed up to stop it from stripping and breaking.įirst thing to note is that it is a gorgeous camera – that often gets confused with being a Hasselblad 500 series. Why purchase an S2A over its predecessor S2? The main difference is an improved film advance gear mechanism one the S2A that’s less prone to breaking compared to that on the S2. There are also some out there with dark grey leatherette – in my opinion the grey looks so classy. The regular version of the camera uses chrome on the body, with black leatherette. ![]() The standard lens for the S2A is a 75mm f/2.8 Nikkor P. The sound is odd and often makes you feel like you may have broken the camera – don’t worry, that’s just the way it works. It takes typically 3 to 4 complete rotations until it feels like it stops then rotate a little more until you hear the shutter cock. The shutter must be cocked before each shot by cranking the film winding lever. Shutter speeds range from 1 to 1/1000s and B. The film back has the capability to accept 220 roll film, the choice of 120 or 220 is made with a flip of a switch on the film back. This mount could focus lenses with focal lengths from 40mm to 200mm longer lenses have their own helicoids. The S2A uses a unique removable helical focusing mount. It is a focal-plane shutter camera – meaning that the shutter is in the camera body – not a leaf shutter in the lens as found on the Kowa Six. The Bronica S2A, SLR released by Bronica in 1969, is the successor of the Bronica S2. Do I still? Keep reading through to the end to find out.įirst a little history.
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